Coat, mantle
BackDescription:
Woman's ceremonial coat or mantle (chirpi, chyrpy, chyrpe) of black woven silk and cotton (?) with inserts of red, orange and white woven silk and cotton (?); lined with printed woven cotton cloth, and embroidered all over with red, brown, yellow and white cotton (?) or silk (?) thread; the hem and 'sleeve' ends are trimmed with a band of woven braid in red, black, orange and white cotton thread and tassels of red and black cotton (?) or silk (?) thread tipped with the same in yellow or white. The 'sleeves', which are for decoration only, are attached by a similar braid and tassels and lie down the back of the coat.
Object type: | coat, mantle |
Museum number: | As1993,27.16 |
Date: | 1880-1930 |
Findspot: | Found/Acquired: Turkmenistan |
Materials: | silk, cotton |
Technique: | woven, embroidered, braided |
Dimensions: | Length: 102.00 cm (excl. fringe) Width: 65.00 cm |
Location: | 55 |
Acquisition names: | Purchased from: John Gillow |
Acquisition date: | 1993 |
Curator's comments:
Text from Paine 2006:63: These densely embroidered cloaks were worn throughout Tekke Turkmen territory, and still are for marriage, while plainer versions are for everyday use. The cloak is worn over the head with vestigial sleeves hanging down the back. This dark green fabric is for a young girl, while yellow is for a married woman and white for an elderly woman. The main motif is the tulip: a symbol of fertility as it is the first flower to bloom on the steppes in spring. The stitch is 'kesdi'.
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