Coat
BackDescription:
A woman's coat, an 'üçetek'. Ankle-length, 'A'-line in shape, with very long sleeves. Made from finely woven yellow silk cloth (tabby) with patterned stripes (supplementary warp): a diamond trellis pattern containing blue leaves; small-scale pink chevrons framed by dark brown geometric motifs; and a gold-coloured chevron stripe (metal-wrapped thread) framed by gold-coloured stripes. Stand-up collar. Long straight sleeves set in at right angles, lower side of sleeve open for 43 cms from sleeve end. Very small diamond-shaped gusset (two joined triangles) under arm. Both collar and sleeves lined with silk cloth. Centre front opening, sleeve openings, hemline and 79 cms side vents, with generous scalloped edge. All edges embroidered with plaited stitch embroidery: gold-coloured metal wrapped thread with yellow (silk?) core on red ground. Fastened with fifteen green silk thread buttons (knotted) and loops. Lined with natural cream tabby cotton cloth. Internal pocket (side opening) on both sides (front). Some staining of lining.
Object type: | coat |
Museum number: | As1974,16.2 |
Culture/period: | Ottoman dynasty |
Date: | 18th century |
Findspot: | Found/Acquired: Turkey |
Materials: | silk, metal, cotton |
Technique: | plainweave, supplementarywarp, embroidered, knotted |
Dimensions: | Length: 134.00 cm Width: 212.00 cm |
Location: | 51 |
Acquisition names: | Purchased from: Mlle G Kaya |
Acquisition date: | 1974 |
Curator's comments:
This ‘triple-skirt’ robe, with scalloped edges and long sleeves, is made of silk cloth with a striped and floral pattern interwoven with gilt-copper thread. Known as selimiye, this type of fabric was named after Sultan Selim III (r. 1789–1807), who established new weaving workshops on the Asian side of Istanbul. He employed French weavers to create lightweight fabrics with a European flavour to rival foreign imports.; Donations and Purchases Book Volume 8: 'Three intricately woven men's coats [sic. these are in fact women's coats] worn at the palace of Sultan Selim, called 'üçetek'.' These items are listed under As17, not As 16.; This refers to Sultan Selim III (r. 7 April 1789 - 29 May 1807).
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